The 18th century, a time of enlightenment and revolution, was also an era of distinct style and elegance, reflected not only in fashion but also in grooming and hairstyles. The beard, a prominent feature of masculinity, was no exception. The century witnessed a wide range of "cortes de barba," or beard styles, that evolved with changing societal norms and trends.
These beard styles were adopted by royalty, aristocrats, and commoners alike, reflecting their status and personal taste. They ranged from the full beard, popular in the early 18th century, to the chin strap and goatee that emerged towards the end, each style telling a story about the wearer and his time.
endl of 17th Century & Early 18th Century: The Full Beard
As the 17th century came to a close, the full beard, a throwback to the Elizabethan era, made a comeback. This style, characterized by hair growing full and thick on the cheeks, chin, and neck, was seen as a sign of virility and power. It was often worn by royalty and aristocracy, who could afford the time and resources for its maintenance.
This style, often referred to as the "Van Dyke beard," is believed to have been popularized by the Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck, whose portraits of King Charles I and other royals showcased this beard style. It was typically worn with a mustache that was either thin and neatly trimmed or full and bushy, depending on personal preference.
The Early 18th Century: The "Vandyke" Variation
A variation of the full beard, the "Vandyke" was characterized by hair that was neatly trimmed around the cheeks and jawline, giving the appearance of a thin, elongated face. The beard was usually worn with a mustache that was either thin and neatly trimmed or full and bushy, depending on personal preference.
This style was particularly popular among French aristocrats and was a symbol of elegance and sophistication. It required significant grooming and maintenance, which was usually managed by personal barbers.
The Mid-18th Century: The "Sideburns" Trend
As the century progressed, the full beard began to give way to the "sideburns," a style where hair was grown on the sides of the face, but not on the chin. This style, which originated in Scotland, was popularized by King George III of England and was often seen as a sign of Scottish heritage.
The sideburns could be worn in various ways, from long and luxurious to short and neat. They were often combined with a mustache and sometimes a chinstrap, a thin strip of hair that ran along the edge of the jawline.
Late 18th Century: The Chinstrap and Goatee
Towards the end of the 18th century, the chinstrap and goatee became increasingly popular. The chinstrap, a narrow band of hair that ran along the jawline, was often seen as a stylish and rebellious alternative to the full beard. It was typically worn with a mustache and sometimes sideburns.
The goatee, which consisted of a tuft of hair on the chin, was another popular style. It was often combined with a mustache and sometimes a chinstrap. Both styles required less grooming than the full beard and were often seen as more youthful and energetic.
The Late 18th Century: The "Gentlemen's Beard" Trend
The "Gentlemen's Beard," a short, neatly trimmed beard that covered the chin and upper lip, emerged as a sign of refinement and sophistication. It was typically worn by upper-class gentlemen and required regular trimming and maintenance to maintain its shape.
This style was popular among English gentry and was often depicted in 18th-century portraiture. It was a stark contrast to the full beard and was seen as a more modern and civilized alternative.
Looking Ahead: The 19th Century and Beyond
The 19th century brought with it new styles and trends in facial hair, influenced by personalities like Abraham Lincoln and his iconic beard. But the Late 18th century, with its chinstrap, goatee, and gentlemen's beard, signaled the end of an era marked by distinct, refined styles that spoke to the time's culture and norms.